The Session #15: How It Started

May 4, 2008 by Greg Clow

It seems to have become a tradition for me to post my contributions to The Session a day or two late. (Or in the case of last month, not at all - which is too bad, since the topic was an interesting one that I would’ve liked to have tackled if I had the time.)

So in that spirit, here is my delayed answer to the following question as posed by this month’s hosts, Boak & Bailey:

We’d like you to write about the moment when you saw the light. At what point did you realise you were a beer lover / geek / enthusiast? What beer(s) triggered the conversion? Did someone help you along your way, or did you come to it yourself?

In short; how did you get into good beer?

I actually touched on this topic a bit in my very first post to this blog back in July, 2006, where I wrote the following:

My interest in good beer [...] started when I was going to school in Waterloo at a time that coincided with the start of Ontario’s modern craft brewing culture. Waterloo was at the epicentre of the scene in the early days, with Brick, Sleeman and Wellington all located in the area. It didn’t take me long to realize that there were better beer options than Labatt and Molson, and I’ve spent the following two decades – and the last few years in particular - exploring the world of microbrews and craft beers as much as possible.

Expanding on this: I attended the University of Waterloo from the fall of 1987 to the end of 1988, at which point I decided that I enjoyed working more than I liked school, so I dropped out and convinced my employer to bump me up from a co-op student position to a full time employee (and incidentally, I’m still working there 20 years later).

As noted above, the first wave of Canada’s modern craft brewing scene was just taking off at this point, and a lot of the action in Ontario was centred around Waterloo and surrounding towns and cities such as Guelph and Cambridge. The Brick Brewery was located quite close to the campus, so some of the first beers I drank at the school were their lagers - although to be honest, I wasn’t an especially discriminating drinker, so I’d be just as likely to be seen pounding back Black Label or Molson Golden (the latter being the preferred brand of my next door neighbour in the dorm who I split a case with each weekend).

The first time I remember drinking a beer that seemed unique from the others in flavour and quality was during my final term when I was at my favourite hang-out, Phil’s Grandson’s Place, and the bartender recommended I try this new beer they’d just gotten in on tap called Sleeman Cream Ale. Compared to every other beer I’d had up to that point, it had a darker golden colour, a fuller body, and a slightly richer flavour. Certainly nothing exciting compared to what I drink today, but at the time, just the fact that it was noticeably different - not to mention pretty tasty - was enough to make me take notice.

Once I’d made the permanent move to Toronto, I continued to dabble in new beers fairly often. I still drank some mainstream brands, like Black Label (pretty much the official beer of Queen Street at the time, thanks to one of the earliest examples of viral marketing) and Molson Dry. But the micros of the day - Upper Canada, Conners, Creemore Springs, Formosa - were also regulars in the rotation. And hell, the very fact that I had a “rotation” and didn’t stick with one brand made me pretty unique.

This casual sampling continued for the next ten years or so, but then a couple of things happened in the late ’90s and early ’00s that caused my interest in craft beer to really spike.

First, in 1998 I read an article in Eye Weekly about the Belgian-style wheat beer Celis White, which Brick had just started brewing for Ontario on contract. Since Hoegaarden wasn’t yet the ubiquitous brand that it has since become, I was completely unfamiliar with the style, but the description of a beer brewed with spices and orange feel intrigued me, so I tried it, loved it, and ended up consuming a lot of it that summer. Soon after that, I somehow stumbled across The Bar Towel, which was a pretty quiet site at the time, but still lead me to beers and bars that I’d never heard of before.

And then in 2000, I went to Montreal for the first edition of the electronic music festival MUTEK. The last couple of days happened to overlap with Montreal’s renowned beer festival, Mondial de la Bière, so I headed down to check it out one afternoon, and proceeded to have my mind blown by the variety of beers available. That was the moment that I decided this beer thing was really for me.

In the years since then, I’ve discovered RateBeer, became the news editor at Bar Towel, written about beer for various places, started this blog, gone to numerous beer festivals and events, and tasted and (mostly) enjoyed over 2100 different beers. I’ve also met some fantastic people - brewers, drinkers, writers and bloggers - all of them amongst the friendliest folks you could ever hope to meet.

So that, in my usual long-winded and roundabout fashion, is how I got into good beer. You can find out how it happened for a bunch of other people (all of whom are more punctual and organised than me) by checking out the round-up of this month’s Session. I’ll do my best to be more on the ball when next month’s edition rolls around.

Southern Tier Beer Dinner

May 2, 2008 by Greg Clow


As usual, others have beat me to it, but I figure since I was a host and co-presenter of the Southern Tier beer dinner at the Academy of Spherical Arts last Friday, I should probably post a little write-up about it.

This was the first beer dinner presented by import agency Roland + Russell for one of their represented breweries, and while the turn-out was a bit lighter than they’d hoped (most likely due to the insane number of beer dinners that have taken place recently), it was still a great night. It definitely helped that the Academy is an absolutely gorgeous venue, and that the chef did a pretty fine job on the food and beer pairings. And having Phin DeMink and Paul Caine on hand from the brewery to speak and answer questions was a big plus as well.

Butternut squash, roasted pear and cheddar soup
served with Phin & Matt’s Extraordinary Ale

I’m a big fan of squash soup, and this was a particularly good one. The cheese pushed it over the top for me (much like bacon, many foodstuffs are improved with the addition of cheese - really, it’s a fact!), but even without that addition it would’ve been a very flavourful and satisfying soup. The well-balanced Extraordinary Ale matched it well, with neither the soup nor the beer overpowering the other.

Baked black cod with sweet potato, rapini and a walnut butter sauce
served with Southern Tier Porter

I have to say that when I first saw the menu a couple of weeks ago, I was skeptical about this pairing. Matching a porter (or any darker, full flavoured beer) with fish just seemed illogical to me, in the same way that one rarely serves red wine with seafood. But the chef really pulled this one off, as the sweetness of the walnut butter sauce and sweet potato played against the porter fantastically. This was both my favourite dish and favourite pairing of the night.

Spicy chicken panang with scented rice, crisp garlic and onions
served with Southern Tier IPA

While my digestive system generally hates me for it, I eat spicy food fairly often. Indian, Caribbean, Thai - I love ‘em all. And pairing a great IPA with a heat-forward dish is always a hit in my books. That said, I found this dish to be exceedingly spicy, almost to the point where I couldn’t finish it, which was too bad as the flavour that managed to fight through the heat was actually very nice. The IPA fought valiantly and managed to cut though the burning sensation somewhat, but by the end, I was mopping the sweat from my bald head and looking for a water refill.

Bitter Chocolate mousse with fresh raspberries and sauce
served with Southern Tier Raspberry Wheat Beer

After the tongue-shredding temperature of the main course, this cool dessert was appreciated. And while I think Southern Tier’s Raspberry Porter would’ve been a better beer pairing for the rich chocolate mousse, the Raspberry Wheat was pleasant, and crisp enough to help strip the residual heat from our mouths.

Food and drink aside, it was a great night for socialising with friends old and new. It was especially nice to see Alan “Mr. Crankypants” McLeod of A Good Beer Blog take the trip from Kingston to attend. Congrats to Liliana & Vlado of Roland + Russell for putting together such an enjoyable night and for all they’ve done to get the Southern Tier beers into Ontario. I look forward to being able to buy the IPA at the LCBO soon, and I’m glad to see the notice on their website that they’re planning to bring in the forthcoming Cherry Saison and Crème Brûlée Stout on a private consignment basis this summer. Here’s hoping they’ll be able to do similar events with some of their other represented breweries in the future.

Beer Stuff on Taste T.O.

April 30, 2008 by Greg Clow

A couple of weeks ago, I sat down for a chat with Ralph Morana of Volo, one of the best beer bars in Toronto. He recently celebrated his 20th anniversary of ownership (although it’s only been a go-to place for beer for the last 5 of those), and we talked about the ups and downs of the last two decades. The resulting article was posted to Taste T.O. today, so under the assumption some some of you might be interested in reading it, here’s the link.

Also on Taste T.O.: One of our other writers interviewed Brian Morin, co-owner and chef at beerbistro. That article was posted yesterday. And here are links to my Beer Of The Week columns that have been posted since the last time I did one of these round-ups:

April 29th: Trafalgar Oak-Aged Rye
April 22nd: Southern Tier IPA
April 15th: Weltenburger Kloster Asam-Bock
April 8th: no column (posted a list of upcoming beer dinners instead)
April 1st: Rogue Brutal Bitter
March 25th: Headstrong Pale Ale & Headstrong Munich Lager

You’d Think We’d Never Seen An IPA Before

April 24, 2008 by Greg Clow

Those of you who don’t live in a jurisdiction with a nanny state style liquor board will probably find this hard to believe, but the fact that Southern Tier IPA is soon going to be available on the general stock list at the LCBO is a Really Big Deal to Ontario beer geeks. For the past couple of years, we’ve had a grand total of three American craft brews available in our retail liquor stores - Brooklyn Lager, Sam Adams Boston Lager and Anchor Liberty Ale - so the impending addition of another fine beer from south of the border has made us happy. (Even better: it will soon be joined by Dogfish Head 60 Minute and Rogue Dead Guy Ale!)

To celebrate the occasion, Southern Tier’s Ontario import agents Roland + Russell have arranged for brewery co-founder Phin DeMink and his brewmaster whose name escapes me at the moment to come up to Toronto for a couple of launch events this weekend.

The first is a dinner on Friday night at the Academy of Spherical Arts, featuring four Southern Tier beers paired with four food courses. Plus Phin and Mr. Brewmaster will be saying a few words, and there’ll be some tag team MC/host action from Cass Enright of The Bar Towel and yours truly. At 75 bucks (all taxes & tips included) for a gourmet meal, several beers, free pool on the Academy’s renowned tables, and the chance to see me make a complete ass of myself, it’s truly the bargain of the year.

And if you’re busy on Friday (or just a cheapass), there’s a free admission “meet & greet” at Volo on Saturday from 5:00 to 7:00 PM, where the Southern Tier duo will be hanging out to chat, and several ST beers will be available to purchase and enjoy. (Yes, I know that the Roland + Russell event page says that it costs $20. That was the original plan - a $20 ticket which included beer samples - but it changed.)

Hopefully, we’ll soon reach the point where a new American beer of quality coming to Ontario will be no big whoop. But for now, it’s a great excuse to get together and do it up right. Hope you can make it.

Earth Day: Think Global, Drink Local

April 22, 2008 by Greg Clow

As I write this, there are just a few minutes left in Earth Day 2008, but it’s not to late for me to mention that for beer drinkers, one of the best ways to help the environment any day of the year is to drink local. Every extra mile that a beer has to travel to get to you means an extra little bit of crap being pumped into the air. Plus closer usually means fresher, and with most beers, fresher is better.

Speaking of fresh, “As Fresh As Fresh Can Be!” is the slogan plastered across the big Creemore Springs Traditional Pilsner billboard across the street from my apartment. And also fresh was the bottle of said beer that was hand-delivered to me (or rather, to my wife who was home at the time) last week, packaged in a cute little insulated bag along with a branded glass and a small ice pack to keep it cool. Good thing my wife doesn’t like pilsners or it probably would’ve been gone before I got home.

Since she doesn’t, and it wasn’t, I re-chilled it and drank it, and found it to be a decent little pils, just as I did last year when the brand was originally launched and I wrote about it for Taste T.O.:

The colour is a clear yellow-gold, capped with a good sized snow white head. The aroma has some similarity to the Premium Lager, likely due to the same or similar yeast strain being used, but it’s softer, with notes of bread, honeyish malt and zesty herbal hops. It’s medium bodied, with a slightly sticky finish, which causes it to be not quite as refreshing as it could be, but still pleasant. The flavour starts off sweet and somewhat delicate, and finishes with grassy, herbal hop notes that get quite bold and dry as it warms up.

The point of the billboard and delivery, by the way, is to promote the fact that the previously can-only Pilsner is now available in 12-packs of 341 ml bottles at the Beer Store.

Also arriving last week was a curious mixed pack from the Ontario Craft Brewers, containing two cans of Hockley Stout, two bottles of Black Oak Pale Ale, and two bombers of Trafalgar Oak-Aged Rye. From what I can gather, this media mailout was meant to promote the fact that Hockley is now canning their Stout, Black Oak Brewery is soon to move from Oakville to Etobicoke, and the Trafalgar beer is part of the LCBO’s current spring beer promotion.

The best part about this pack - aside from the fact that it meant six free beers! - was that I’ve already written two of them up for Taste T.O. columns, and the third for a RateBeer entry, so that makes this post very easy for my lazy ass.

Black Oak Pale Ale (from Taste T.O.):

It has a beautiful golden hue with a good sized white head that leaves a fair bit of lacing on the glass as it recedes. The aroma is fresh and inviting, with a big hop presence, but with sweet malt to balance, and a faint woodiness. The body is a touch thin, but also crisp and lively - quite likely due to the addition of a bit of toasted wheat to the recipe - giving the beer a thirst-quenching edge. And the flavour follows the aroma closely: a good balance of sweet, honeyish malt and citric hops that linger deliciously in the finish.

Hockley Stout (from Taste T.O.):

It has a deep black body with ruby tints and a massive off-white head that recedes fairly quickly. The aroma is mild and malty, with notes of wood smoke, coffee and vanilla, and the body is a bit thin, but has a slight creaminess which is nice. The flavour is full and very solid, with all of the characteristics I expect from a dry stout - good maltiness, a bit of coffee and smoke, and a dry, faintly soured finish - and the fairly low alcohol (4.2%) is right on the mark for the style as well. Quite frankly, this is the beer that Guinness wishes it could be.

Trafalgar Oak-Aged Rye (from RateBeer):

Golden colour with a reddish tinge and a small white head. Nice aroma of vanilla, bourbon and oak. Thinnish body. Flavour is somewhat one-dimensional, but still pleasant, with notes of wood and vanilla working well with the fairly light base beer. I’ve been disappointed by some of Trafalgar’s off-centre beers in the past - they should deal with their quality control and infection issues rather than cranking out so many different styles of beer, IMO - but this is an interesting and enjoyable beer.

In relation to my criticism of Trafalgar’s infection issues in the review above (and in earlier posts on this blog), I should mention that I haven’t actually opened either of the bottles that I received in promo package (the review above is from a draught sample last summer), and their bottled product is where those issues are most often evident. I’m hopeful for this beer, though, given that the mentions of it on Bar Towel from those who have tried this batch have been generally positive, with no pickle juice comparisons. So maybe things are looking up for Trafalgar.

Bavaria/Koningshoeven Beer Dinner

April 18, 2008 by Greg Clow

This past Tuesday evening, the unofficial Month Of Beer Dinners continued with a dinner at the website-less Abbot On The Hill that featured three courses paired with beers from the Dutch breweries Bavaria and Koningshoeven.

I must admit that when I first heard about this dinner, I was a bit confused by the beer selections. Aside from the fact that both breweries are Dutch and are repped in Canada by Premier Brands, I couldn’t see much in common between a large (albeit family-run) brewery that specialises in mainstream lagers, and a small abbey brewery that produces Trappist ales. But as we learned during a talk by Daan Bastijn, president of Bavaria’s North American office in Atlanta, there is a connection between the two, as Bavaria took over the operations of the Koningshoeven brewery in 1999 in order to assist the aging monks in the production of the beer. This arrangement led to Koningshoeven losing the rights to use the official Trappist beer logo for several years, although when the contract was renewed in 2004, Bavaria stepped back into more of an arms-length role, and their official Trappist status was revived in 2005.

(Oh, and by the way, i forgot my camera and had to use my phone to take the photos in this post. Which explains why they’re even shittier than usual.)

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Beer Steps Up To The Gourmet Plate

April 15, 2008 by Greg Clow

Since starting Taste T.O. early last year, Sheryl and I have been going to a good number of gourmet food events, and as you’d expect, the vast majority of them feature wine as the beverage of choice, with the beer choices (if there even are any) often limited to one or two mainstream offerings. So I was pretty stoked a few weeks ago when I found out about the Brewers Plate, a gourmet tasting event pairing (mostly) local food from some of Toronto’s top chefs with beers from some of the area’s best craft breweries, all in support of Green Enterprise Toronto.

The event took place this past Friday, April 11th at the picturesque Berkeley Church, and was a success on pretty much all levels, from the quality of the food and drink, to the size and enthusiasm of the crowd. I’m going to be writing up a full report for the summer issue of TAPS, but in the meantime, here are links to a few write-ups that have been posted by others elsewhere:

Sheryl @ Taste T.O.
Joshua @ blogTO
Troy @ Great Canadian Pubs & Beer
Christine @ Canadian Living: The Foodie-File

Some photos (most taken by Sheryl, ’cause I’m a klutz with the camera) are available behind the cut.

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Fuller’s Beer Dinner

April 10, 2008 by Greg Clow

This past Tuesday, thanks to the fine folks at Premier Brands, I had the opportunity to attend a Fuller’s Beer Dinner at the Duke of Westminster pub here in Toronto. The main purpose of the event was to mark the official launch of Fuller’s Organic Honey Dew on draught in Canada (previously, it was only available here in bottles on a limited basis), and Fuller’s Brewing Director John Keeling was on hand to talk about Fuller’s and to introduce the beers that we sampled throughout the night.

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LCBO: Let’s Censor Bunnies, OK?

March 23, 2008 by Greg Clow

gc_easter_censored.jpgLike most government-run liquor boards, Ontario’s LCBO has their fair share of rules and regulations that producers and agents have to follow in order to get their products into the system. Some of them have at least a semblance of logic, such as ensuring that the alcohol percentage on the label matches that of the liquid in the bottle, but a lot of them elicit an incredulous “WTF?” reaction from me, and presumably many other people.

For example, there is a policy that any graphics that might be appealing to children are not allowed to appear on the packaging of alcoholic beverages in Ontario. Now, I find this policy to be pretty ridiculous, which is how I feel about most overly restrictive laws and policies of the “Who will think of the CHILDREN???” sort. But if I put myself into the nanny state mindset for just a moment, I suppose I can see the reasoning of such a policy when it comes to products that are sold at LCBO retail outlets, since they might purchased and brought in the homes of irresponsible parents who leave their liquor in a place accessible to their kids.

What I absolutely cannot understand, however, is why this same policy applies to products that are not in LCBO stores, and are only available via consignment orders directly from import agents. The vast majority of these products - such as the Gouden Carolus Easter Beer pictured here - are sold to the bar and restaurant trade, where they should never be accessible to anyone under the age of 19. Yet the LCBOverlords ordered that the label on every bottle of this beer had to be defaced with a sticker before they were shipped out to the handful of establishments that ordered it via import agents Roland + Russell.

(By the way - if you’re curious to see the offending image that needed to be censored, just click on the photo.)

Anyway, government red tape and label defacement aside, I suppose we should at least be happy that Gouden Carolus Easter Beer is available to Ontarians at all. It’s one of the few Easter beers brewed anywhere (according to RateBeer, there are barely two dozen beers in the world with the word “Easter” in their name), and given the generally high quality of the Gouden Carolus line-up, it’s bound to be a good one.

I’ve actually got a bottle courtesy of R+R, but it’s set aside to share with some friends at a beer tasting later this week (none of which are children, I promise!), and my review will pop up on RateBeer soon afterwards. In the meantime, Happy Easter!

Beer - It’s What’s For Dinner

March 21, 2008 by Greg Clow
beerfordinner.jpg

If you’ve been paying attention to The Bar Towel recently - or more specifically, to my news posts and the Beer Events forum over there - you’ll know that there are a crazy number of beer dinners coming up in Toronto over the next couple of months. I’ll be trying to make it out to as many of them as I can, and will post reviews of the ones that I attend, but for those who are in the area and would like to make it out to some themselves, here’s a quick round-up:

Monday, March 24th
Easter Beer Dinner

Abbot On The Hill, 1276 Yonge Street
$65 - call 416.920.9074 for reservations

A special Easter Monday dinner pairing five Belgian beers from import agents Roland & Russell - Margriet, St Martin Blonde, St Martin Brune, Gouden Carolus Easter Beer & Boscoulis - paired with a five-course meal, including a main course of Rabbit Fricassee with Apricot Preserves & Spiced Pecans. [more details]

Tuesday, April 8th
Fuller’s Dinner with John Keeling

Duke of Westminster, First Canadian Place, 77 Adelaide Street West
$45 - call 416.368.2761 for reservations

Premier Brands presents a dinner with John Keeling, Brewing Director of Fuller’s Brewery, Chiswick, London, UK. Beers to be served include Fuller’s London Pride, Fuller’s ESB, Fuller’s London Porter & Fuller’s Organic Honey Dew. [more details]

Friday, April 11th
The Brewer’s Table
The Church at Berkeley, 315 Queen Street East
$150 - call 416.644-1012 to reserve

A benefit for Green Enterprise Toronto, co-presented by Local Food Plus and Slow Food Toronto. This first annual event celebrates slow food, local-sustainable food and farming, and import substitution in the winter/spring season in the Toronto region. Featuring finely crafted beers from Mill Street, Cameron’s, Wellington, Church Key, Steam Whistle and Black Oak to compliment dishes from Jamie Kennedy Kitchens, La Palette, Veritas, Cowbell, Gladstone Hotel and Rebel House, as well as variety of individual food artisans, oysters from Oyster Boy, and live jazz bands. [more details]

Friday, April 25th
Southern Tier Beer Dinner

The Academy of Spherical Arts, One Snooker Street
ticket info t.b.a.

Roland & Russell presents a dinner with Southern Tier’s Phin DeMink to celebrate the arrival of Southern Tier IPA at the LCBO. There will also be a more casual “meet & greet” with Phin on Saturday, April 26th at Volo. Further details t.b.a.

April (date t.b.a.)
Bavaria/La Trappe Beer Dinner

Abbot On The Hill, 1276 Yonge Street
ticket info t.b.a.

Premier Brands presents a three-course dinner to mark the arrival of Bavaria on draught for the first time in Canada, and La Trappe (Koningshoeven) Bock for the first time in the Western Hemisphere. Further details t.b.a.

Wednesday, May 28th
Dogfish Head Beer Dinner

beerbistro, 18 King Street East
$100 - tickets on sale May 1st

A dinner with Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head, featuring the beer cuisine of beerbistro chef Brian Morin paired with a number of DFH beers, some available for the first time in Ontario. Further details t.b.a.